Muga Silk
Muga the golden-yellow silk produced by Antheraea assama is found only in the Brahmaputra Valley of India. This species of silkworm is semi-domesticated in that the rearers collect the worms that crawl down at the end of their larval period. They are GI Journal No. 52 28 October 30, 2013 allowed to spin cocoons in the rearer’s houses. The shimmering golden yellow silk is referred to in literature from as long as 1662 BC. The Antheraea assamensis is cultivated especially in Brahmaputra valley because its characteristic ecological requirements are found only in its natural abode
Silk is a protein fiber produced by silkworm for spinning cocoons. The purpose of the cocoon is to provide a protective casing to the silkworm during the most critical period of its life i.e. the pupal stage. Basically there are two proteins, which form the silk fiber i.e. "fibroin" which constitutes the core of the fiber and "Sericin" a waxy substance that encases the fibroin. These proteins are synthesized by the silkworm from the leaf it feeds on during its larval period. There are three types of silkworm found in Assam, particularly mulberry, eri and muga silk. The muga silk is golden-yellow in color. Muga possesses the highest tensile strength among all the natural textile fibers
Gamosa of Assam
Gamosa is a traditional textile of Assam. It bears great significance for the people of Assam. Gamosa is one of the unique identities of Assamese Society. It is a symbol of Assamese culture. This is a handloom product which has high esteem and wide usage in Assamese culture. In earlier times “Gamosa” was also known as “Phali”. Furthermore, as it was used to wipe face that is why it was also known as “Mukhosa”. Gamosa with red border (Pari) and floral motifs on both sides is used by gents and ladies as headgear and is wrapped around the waist during Bihu festival. Normally it is used as wrapper in neck or hang on the shoulders while going to Namghar (temple). Moreover, in all rituals, related to “Puja” and “Nam Prasang”, “Gamosa” is wrapped around the neck by both gents and ladies. Gents normally use “Gamosa” as head gear while working in paddy field or in kitchen garden. During Bihu festival, the younger offer “Gamosa” to elder people to show respect to seniors and love to dear ones. Gamosa is very close to the culture of Assamese people.
The origin of the word “Gamosa'' had come from Sanskrit word “Gatro Marjoni” meaning the piece of fabric used to absorb water / to wipe body after taking bath, the piece of fabric to keep betel nut, the piece of fabric used as headgear (Hemchandra Baruah). According to Dr. Birinchi Kr. Baruah, Gamosa is known as Angvastra, came from the word “Angochha '' which means Gamosa. Size and functions of Gamosa are different.
Bodo Aronai
Bodos have their own unique culture and tradition and the same is reflected in their dance, music, festivals, and also traditional clothing. The traditional attire of Bodo people is nature driven i.e., the design and embroideries on their piece of cloth is beautifully inspired by their surroundings (tree, flower, mountain, birds and other species). Bodo communities and their culture are easily identified by their traditional attires and clothing. Their textile designs are embedded with distinctive Motifs and varieties of colour having sociological significance. The Motifs are intricately put and kept realistic to provide an authentic image of nature. Design in a general way is divided into five broad categories, viz, naturalistic, stylized, geometric, abstract and structural. Naturalistic designs are those that are drawn from flowers, leaves, plants, animals, landscapes etc.
Traditional Bodo scarf Bodo Aronai represents the cultural heritage of the Bodo community and comes in bright beautiful colours like red, yellow, orange, green, violet, white, maroon, pink, etc. The Shikri Agor (butterfly like design) and The Hajw Agor are commonly used in the Bodo Aronai, and these Agor’s are considered as the identity-marker of Bodo ethnicity. The weaving of this item is considered sacred as it was served as a protective armour in the olden days and therefore, it also threw light on the weaver’s determination, dedication and perseverance when they weaved Bodo Aronai.
Bodo Dokhona
Bodo Dokhona is weaved by Bodo women in their own handloom which covers the whole body from chest to legs and to cover the upper portion a traditional scarf called Jwmgra is worn by Bodo women. There are more than 47 types of Agors (Design) used in the process of making Dokhona. Bodo Dokhona means six corners (Do means six and Khona means corner in Bodo), i.e., it gives six corners when worn. The process of weaving a single dokhona can be completed within 3-4 days.
Bodo Dokhona Thaosi is used during wedding ceremonies that is particularly recognized as bridal attire. It is also known as the pure Bodo Dokhona. The threads (Bobbins) are coursed into weaving machine, thereby producing exquisite pieces of the fabric. This weaving machine is a wood-based device comprising of certain compartments that is necessarily involved in, for the production of the quality product.
Bodo Eri Silk
Bodo Eri silk is also referred as “peaceful silk” and “Ahimsa silk”. It is also known by the local name „Indi‟ in Bodoland. Eri is also known as the “Silk of the Millenium”. Eri culture is the legacy of Bodos. It is an ageold tradition and culture which is considered as the source of income for all sections of the community. Therefore, 1st may is celebrated to honor the Eri Farmers/ Weavers and to praise the significance of Eri culture in the life of Bodo people. Bodo Eri silk is the preferred material of Buddhists and Vegans because the moth is not killed; it leaves the cocoon after spinning and flies off. It has antimicrobial properties. Bodo Eri silk is one of the most durable and strong fibers. It is cooling in the summer and warming in the winter. Bodo Eri silk is very tensile, has extreme longevity and could last up to three generations. Bodo Eri silk is the only type of silk having red cocoon which is derived based on its geographical location and climate.
The red cocoon is only found in Kokrajhar and Chirang district of Bodoland. Once the process of demugging the cocoon begins, Eri fabric naturally retains light khadi color. Bodo Eri silk has certain excellent textile properties such as fineness (2-2.5 denier) and thermal properties which play important role for determining the end use of a fiber. Bodo Eri silk is finer than muga and tasar silk - not only it requires less material to prepare the desired piece of fabric but it exhibits super softness and comfort. Bodo Eri silk (Silk) has excellent hypoallergenic and thermo-regulating properties, making it the ideal companion throughout the seasons, even for the most delicate skins.
Bodo Jwmgra
The term “Jwmgra” is used in the Bodo Community which represents stole/scarf. The patterns and designs made on Jwmgra are authentic and hand-crafted by the Bodo women. It is used all year around by the Bodo women, paired up with their traditional attire “Dokhona”. Jwmgra are made of eri silk has khadi colour or white shade with bright tincture designs on it which lasts at least three generations. In the marriage ceremony also a specific kind of Dokhona and Jwmgra is worn by the Bodo bride.
The dokhona shall be aagor gubwi and jwmgra shall be red colour pahar erkhwnai. The Bagurumba dance is the main traditional dance of Bodo people, women perform this dance, wearing their colourful traditional attire dokhna, jwmgra and aronai. Bodo women wear various colours of Bodo Jwmgra which has different designs. The Hajw Agor (mountain design) is one of the most popular designs amongst all. Bodo Jwmgra crafted from eri silk possesses remarkable anti-thermal qualities, offering warmth in winter months while ensuring a cooling effect in the heat of summer.
Bodo Gamsa
Bodo Gamsa is the male garment which is worn as household attire and also in Bagurumba dance as well. It is form of dress used by Bodo men which is worn by wrapping around the waist and usually falls until knee. Bodo Gamsa is in different colours but Green with white (in border) is the most common colour in Bodo. According to the tradition and rituals it is compulsory to wear while worshipping the God. Simple Bodo Gamsa (without design or colour combination) is generally use as household attire and in wedding ceremony Bodo men usually wear Bodo Gamsa of green or yellow colour.
The uniqueness of Bodo Gamsa lies in the natural dyeing process. Bodo people demonstrate a profound appreciation for natural artistry in dyeing fabrics. Materials used for dying, typically blue and various shades of green, are derived from natural sources like leaves or tree roots, showcasing a sustainable and eco-friendly approach to clothing. The Bodo people show fondness for the coloured garment and are aware of natural art of dying, the materials for preparing the dying (usually blue and various shades of green) are derived generally from the leaves or roots of trees.
Mishing Handloom Products
Assam‟s indigenous tribal community Mishing has a rich tradition of weaving. A Mishing woman, despite being engaged in myriad household activities through the day, is likely to spend some time on her loom every day. The women make garments, mainly for everyday use, on handlooms. They also weave classy products for special occasions. The Traditional Costumes of Mishing The costume is a distinct mark of tribal identity. The missing costumes are very colorful and embellished with intricate motifs and designs. Mishing tribe has its own pattern of clothes, and thus an individual can easily be identified by this dress.
Costume means manner of dressing, wearing the hair, and in later time to dress. It is the mode of fashion of personal attire and dress, including the way of wearing hair, style of clothing and personal adornment belonging to a particular nation, class, or period. Different types of apparels and fabrics of Mishing tribes are made on their handlooms with simple implements and equipment. By way of systematic analysis, the various costumes worn by the Mishing men and women as such: Traditional dresses sworn by Mishing men. Traditional dresses worn by Mishing women. Traditional Dresses Worn by Mishing Men Mibu Galuk is a front opening sleeveless jacket, with stripes of designs over the back and waist available in different colours.
Source: Intellectual Property India