Gadwal Sarees
Gadwal Sarees are sarees alongwith attached blouses are often regarded as Pooja Sarees by local women who wear them especially during traditional festivals, marriages, auspicious functions and other traditional celebrations. These sarees are made from pure silk, pure cotton or pure tussar or a combination of two of these along with zari work. These sarees are hand woven. No machine or power loom is used in the production process. The length of the saree varies from 5 to 6.5 Meters in length. The width of the sarees varies from 45 to 50 inches. The weight of the Saree depends upon the silk, cotton or tussar used along with the amount of zari work done. However the weight of each saree is not less than 350 grams. No upper limit can be fixed, as the same is a variable component, varying depending upon the quantity of raw material used and the nature of design done. Gadwal saree consists of three parts namely; (a) Body of the saree, (c) Pallu. These sarees were originally woven for the royal family and the family of the nobles. Its use gradually spread to the entire women folk of the region. The body of the saree has many designs woven into it. The designs, their orientation and layout are given by the master weaver.
Siddipet Gollabhama
The Siddipet Gollabama pertains to sarees that are hand woven, having the unique motif of a Gollabama. A Gollabama is a figure of a milk maid carrying a milk pot over her head and one in her hand. This motif of Gollabama is an essential element, woven compulsorily in the pallu of all Siddipet Gollabama Sarees. The body of the saree is plain or has buttas. These sarees are made from pure cotton yarn or from mercerized cotton. There is no usage of zari. The length of all these sarees, including the blouse, is about 5 ½ meters and the width is 47 inches. The sarees weigh approximately between 400 – 450 gms. The pallu has about 8 to 13 Gollabama motifs woven into it, depending on whether the pallu has a border on both sides of the Gollabama or on only one side. On the bottom border of the saree about 13 to 15 Gollabama motifs are woven. No Gollabama motifs are woven on the upper border of the saree. Therefore the weaving of Gollabama motif on the pallu is generally a requisite in all Siddipet Gollabama Sarees, while weaving of the Gollabama motifs on the lower border of the saree is optional. Further the motifs on the border is always only on one side i.e. on the lower/ bottom side and never on both sides of the saree. Further butta design might or might not be there on the body of the saree. Another important feature is that weaving of the Gollabama motifs into the sarees is not done on the loom but purely by hand. In the pallu, a ‘line design’ is woven throughout the width of the saree, above and below the line of Gollabama motifs. These lines are woven to enhance the look of the sarees and there is no said pattern for these lines. The weaving of these line designs is optional. The thickness, layout of the lines and the colour of yarn used is left to the design visualization of the weaver and sometimes the design is drawn on a graph paper before weaving it into the saree. Small instruments called Sanchas are used to weave the motifs on the material. The Gollabama designs woven in the pallu and body are between 9 – 10 centimeters in height and about 5 centimeters in width. This measurement is standard and does not vary. This again is a compulsorily requisite in weaving Siddipet
Narayanpet handloom Sarees
Narayanpet Sarees covers only sarees, with or without blouses apart from sarees no other dress material is made. The sarees are woven by hand with cotton or silk yarn. Both the warp and weft yarn is either cotton or silk yarn and not a mix of them. In some cases a mix of cotton and silk yarn is also used for weaving the sarees. In such cases the warp is pure silk yarn and the weft is pure cotton yarn. The cotton used is of 80s count. The saree consists of the i) body, ii) pallu, and iii) the border. In all the sarees i.e. either cotton, silk, or mix of these two, the minimum length of the pallu is 60cms. The length of the pure cotton saree would be 5.5 meters (without blouse), 6.20 meters (with attached blouse) or 8.25 meters (with attached blouse). The width would be 46 inches. The length of the silk saree or a mix of cotton and silk saree is standard, being 6 meters. Of this the body of the saree is about 5.4 meters and the pallu about 0.6 meters. Silk sarees are made mostly along with the blouse. The length of the border through the entire length of the saree, in all the three type of sarees is between 3 to 5.5 inches, measured from the outer end of the saree to the inner end of the border. Border is present on both sides of the saree, running through the entire length of the body of the saree. This is a compulsory requirement in all sarees. There is no border in the pallu area. The border on both sides is of uniform size. The pallu and border have zari work. The body of the saree has checks. This is a unique feature of these sarees. That apart no other design of flora or fauna or any other design/motif is woven. So presence of checks and absence of any other design apart from checks, in the body of the cotton is a unique feature. The temple design in the border is yet another unique feature which is present in all silk sarees. The presence of temple border is not compulsory for cotton sarees. The presence of arrow heads in the pallu in silk sarees is another unique feature, though not present in cotton sarees. These sarees are worn by the women folk on traditional, ceremonial and religious occasions. They are very popular in the state of Maharashtra, where it is still considered auspicious to wear these sarees. These sarees are also offered to Goddesses.
Warangal Durries
Warangal durries (also called as shatranjis) are of various designs like One-Two-Three, FullDil, Temple, Vanka, FeerDoshi, Surya, Keelam, Dilkush Interlock, Tie and Dye etc.Jainamaaz or prayer durries/rugs are also made in warangal using the same methods and materials. They have fringes or stitches at the border of the durries. Cost of durries ranges from Rs. 100 to 1500 rupees depending upon the size, design and quality of cotton of the durries. Warangal durries are of various sizes (in feet) ranging from 2X3 to 60X90. The designs that are characteristic of Warangal durries are geometric, angular motifs used in tapestry weave structures, colored horizontal stripes used in jamkhans and shatranjis and the mihrab motif in the jainamaaz. The colors used are distinct with reds and blues used in combination with neutral colors. The designs range also has flat weaves with raised or extra weft patterns.
Telia Rumal
The pattems in the Telia Rumal consist of a variety of images, based around the sub-divisions of a square. These include the dot, square, cross, chevron, rectangle and various stepping motifs. The initial patterns used were strictly geometric but Telia Rumals made after 1930s incorporated figurative designs such as Maddikaya, Omkaram, Padava, Chandrudu, Hastam, Pachees, Bhucharakam, Swastik, Vimanam, Simham, Chillaka, Gadiyaram, Muggu, Suryudu, Pakshulu and Mallepuwu which required higher weaving skills. The traditional Telia Rumal is restricted to only 3 colours, viz. red anything from crimson to orange red, brown red and maroonish red), natural colour (white) and black (black or brown), sometimes with a hint of yellow to orange or pink. If the patterned center field is predominantly dark, i.e., black or brown, then the plain outer border will be red. If the center- field is predominantly red, the outer border will be dark. These plain borders have delicate white lines which cross at the corners of the kerchief, to form a fine grid which is created by the Ikat process.
Pochampally Ikat
Pochampally is a well known Cotton and Silk Ikat weaving centre in Telagana State, located just 50 km from Hyderabad. The colours of Pochampalli Ikat fabrics are mesmerizing and even more astonishing is the simple method they use to produce bold geometrical designs of flowers, birds and animal pattern. The technique of Ikat weaving, which requires true precision and skill, is believed to be brought in the town of Pochampally from Chirala where it is locally called as chit-ku. Characterized by their bold, geometrical motifs, in red, black and white, they were used in as loincloths, lungis or turbans. In the 1930's they were exported in large numbers to Burma, the middle east and East Africa where they were known as Asia Rumals . In the 60's, weavers of Pochampalli started weaving sarees initially on cotton and then silk was introduced.
Source:Intellectual Property India